MC30060V2: 30x30x6mm version of the above, pushes more air but is noticeably louder, way too much for me.
MC30101V2: 30x30x10mm 12V running at 5V, very quiet (can't hear it from 1.5m away, but it's not a completely quiet room) and pushes a bit less air than the above but not by much. More than enough to keep the board at a good temperature.
HA30101V3: 30x30x10mm 12V running at 5V, it's a slower speed version of the above meant to be quieter, but when running at 5V the very low noise feels the same for me as the other while pushing noticeably less air.
These are the A99 variants (e.g. MC30101V2-000U-A99) which have two wires; the G99 variant is just the same with a third wire that reports the RPM measurement: it costs more (~2€) so it only makes sense if you can't find the A99 version of the fan you want.
The 6mm thick fans fit inside the case, although you would have to cut a circle in the side panel to allow air to flow (""), while the 10mm ones require either a square hole or replacing the panel entirely as I did.
V nominal is the standard voltage for the other measurements (airflow, noise, RPM, etc.), V start is the minimum it needs to start spinning on its own, mA is the current in milli-Ampères, RPM is Revolutions Per Minute, CFM is Cubic Feet per Minute: the airflow it pushes if there are no obstacles (to deal with obstacles, look for "static pressure"), dB is the noise in decibels at the nominal voltage.
My recommendation for anyone that wants to mount the fan on the side is to use a fan similar to either the MC25060V2 for compactness, or the MC30101V2 for quietness. I've picked the MC30101V2 with the rubber band mount I mentioned before and I'm very happy with it.
Top-mounted fans are less constrained for size and you can see some examples in the thread .
Statistics: Posted by AlbertoGP — Wed Jul 02, 2014 7:06 pm
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The best result I can report is the following super-simple and effective rubber band mount for the fan:
rubber-mount.jpg
The band is a slice from a mountain bike tire; quick to make and fit, and very adjustable: sliding the band on the plastic mount points up or down changes the tension on each side of the band, the tighter side pushes the fan in the opposite direction, and you can then adjust the vertical position to the millimeter.
It also holds fans of different thicknesses, so instead of 6mm it could be a more common 10mm or even 15mm. A deeper tunnel makes the fan more efficient and I think you could get the same amount of airflow with a slower-spinning and therefore quieter fan.
You could use a 12V fan at 5V like Dr.BeauWebber did in the thread . For that you need to check the starting voltage of the fan: it varies from model to model, I've seen some with 8, 6, or 4.5V of starting voltage. One that needs more than 5V will not start, or if it is close enough it might spin once you push it but then if it stops for whatever reason it would not start again on its own and your board would fry.
For the Sunon fans, you can find that information in the extended specification PDF from here: http://www.sunon.com/pro.php?c1=16
Select some parameters, for instance size 30x30x10 and voltage 12, then in the result table you have the PDF link at the right side for each model.
Using one fan instead of two the temperature goes up 3 degrees.
In both cases, having the opposite long side of the case in place means around 2 degrees more.
Cheers,
-- Alberto
Statistics: Posted by AlbertoGP — Thu Jun 12, 2014 1:51 pm
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The nicest fitting of the fan to the case I've seen is by bszente in the thread "".
That's what I wanted to do now that I've given up on passive cooling, but where I'm now I don't have a drill big enough for a hole that size and I'm worried about botching it. I rather like the acrylic case; it has a couple of small shortcomings but I've found it to be very flexible and well thought out.
What I've done instead is make a metal bracket to hold two 30x30x6mm fans in place of one of the long sides:
fan-clip-before-and-after.jpg
fan-clip-inside.jpg
fan-clip-outside.jpg
That's too much but I want to see what happens. To maximise the airflow I leave the opposite long side off and the top lid on.
The power source is a solid 3A and I'm running the headless configuration so there is enough power for those two fans. They are the 30mm variant of the 25mm mentioned in other threads; the whole catalog is here:
The smaller variant would be better because it's quieter, and with the metal bracket I have a vibration and resonance problem so I'll try things like removing one and adding dampening. Right now it sounds like a small server, but those guys do bring down the temperature a few more degrees than the 92mm 12v running at 5v I've used until now.
Statistics: Posted by AlbertoGP — Wed Jun 11, 2014 5:56 pm
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Statistics: Posted by svartalf — Wed Jun 11, 2014 3:35 am
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You can see that there are two small chips north and south of the Epiphany that get quite hot, and one of them was under the heatsink without touching it. I have the fan blowing from that side so some air was getting there, but I suspect that it was worse than having the whole area open with the air flowing freely over it.
The image I had in mind was this other one, but it's for the Gen0 board, not the Gen1:
http://s.radar.oreilly.com/wp-files/8/2 ... 00x232.jpg
I might have been transferring heat from the ZINQ to the Epiphany, which is probably as bad an idea as it sounds.
There is another problem: the ZINQ chip is slightly taller than the Epiphany. I had adjusted it with a piece of aluminium foil slightly thicker than the kind used for packaging food, plus a thin layer of Arctic MX-2 thermal grease, but then the HDMI chip is again a little bit taller than the ZINQ, so there is no way to have it completely level unless you start piling risers or thermal pads.
(Edit: ZYNQ and Epiphany are level as far as I can see. The one tilting the old heatsink was the HDMI chip)
I've put now a different heatsink similar to the original but 20x30x30mm big that rests only on the ZINQ and touches the back of the Ethernet plug. The temperature with the same fan on, but without the top side because it won't fit, is a couple of degrees lower: 45C to 43C. I don't know the ambient temperature but it's a warm day.
With the fan blowing I can touch the Epiphany without issue, it feels hot but it's no problem keeping the fingertip on it even after it has been computing things for a while.
So again, if you are thinking about doing this, don't.
Statistics: Posted by AlbertoGP — Fri Jun 06, 2014 5:09 pm
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Statistics: Posted by shodruk — Wed May 28, 2014 3:27 pm
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(Just need a Parallella sticker to fit on top).
tery
Statistics: Posted by greytery — Tue May 27, 2014 10:30 pm
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heatsink-alignment.jpg
heatsink-general-view.jpg
heatsink-clip.jpg
The result is not great. It still needs a fan which brings down the temperature immediately as you switch it on.
My advice is not to bother until next version when the caps go away, just use a fan in this one.
Statistics: Posted by AlbertoGP — Tue May 27, 2014 9:19 pm
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Statistics: Posted by ZenoArrow — Tue May 13, 2014 11:27 pm
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